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July 17, 2024
CLIMBING ROUTE: Summer Route, aka Monitor Ridge Route from Climber's Bivouac. Route is snow-free, with access to snow diminishing rapidly. Glissading is increasingly difficult with rocks and cracks and short runouts. Know the forecast at all elevations before your climb, have cold/wet weather layers and redundant navigational aides (map, compass and GPS) for low-visibility conditions. The only water on the route may be found in melt streams or trickles in the afternoon. Carry at least 4L of water and be prepared to filter and replenish if you find a melt source.
RIM WARNING: The rim is caving into the crater. Stay behind the flags or 15' from the rim edge if flags are not present (pictured). Several cornice and actual rim failures have occurred since July 8. As the cornice (snow) has failed and fallen away, the rim itself (rock and scree) has fallen in the crater. This is a highly unstable area. The rim may be undermined and more rim failure is expected.
More information:
PERMITTING: Refer to the recreation and permitting site for current permit dates, prices and limitations.
Route finding: Recommend preloading offline maps of the "Worm Flows, Winter Route" into your device and have a paper map and compass backup. Route finding above tree line can be very challenging on days with reduced visibility, frequent winds, precipitation, fog, whiteouts, etc. Above tree line beginning the ascent, follow the route marked by wooden poles. As gullies melt out, more boot trails will be exposed.
Leave No Trace: Climbers are required to utilize blue bags to pack out all human or pet waste, including toilet paper.
Camping: There is dispersed camping and pit toilets available at the trailhead, but no running water, and bathroom services may be limited so please bring your own toilet paper, soap, water, or hand sanitizer. Please plan accordingly.
Photos courtesy of MSHI Volunteers and Guides
See the U.S. Forest Service Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument website for more information.
FIRE: Incident Information System has the most up to date info on all fires (prescribed or wild) around the country, or Northwest Interagency Coordination Center. Visit Washington Smoke Information, Washington's Air Monitoring Network and AirNow for the latest in Air Quality and forecasting.
WEATHER: Weather.gov point forecasts- Marble Mountain SnoPark (2,700ft) and mid-slope (6,200ft). Mountain-Forecast.com provides forecasts at three different elevations: summit 8,328ft, mid-slope 6,500ft and just above the trailhead 3,200ft.
AVALANCHE: Visit the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center for the most up-to-date avalanche forecast information during winter months.
SNOWPACK: Visit these SNOTEL sites for recent snow pack readings on the south side of Mount St. Helens- June Lake (3,400ft) and Swift Creek (4,400ft).
This conditions report is provided in conjunction with the US Forest Service, and is intended for personal and recreational purposes only. Safe backcountry travel requires preparation and planning, and this information may be used for planning purposes but does not provide all the information necessary for backcountry travel. Advanced mountaineering education is strongly encouraged for winter climbing.
The user acknowledges that it is impossible to accurately predict natural events in every instance, and the accuracy or reliability of the information provided here is not guaranteed in any way. This report describes general conditions and local variations will always occur. This report expires 24 hours after the posted time unless noted otherwise.
Have a more recent report? We would love to hear from you! Email your conditions update to climb@mshinstitute.org, photos welcome.
