June 12, 2019 update
Sunrise: 5:17 am
Sunset: 9:01 pm
The road to Climber's Bivouac is OPEN. The summer climbing route out of Climber's Bivouac is the preferred climbing route for summer and fall. A NW Forest Pass or American the Beautiful Pass is required to park at the trailhead. Day passes available for $5 cash at the trailhead. There are pit toilets available, but no running water. Please plan accordingly. Advanced-purchase climbing permits are required (found at recreation.gov) , and climbers will need to register in the log book at the climber's kiosk at the trailhead before climbing.
The road to Cllimber's Bivouac is free of ice and snow and in good condition for all cars. Spring weather and the quota season that began April 1 brings the crowds. Please carpool with your fellow climbers and follow all posted parking regulations to minimize cars and trailers at the trailhead. Woodland Park & Ride and the Cougar Rest Area are both excellent places to meet and carpool from.
The first two miles through the trees is in good condition, although a tree has fallen across a switchback just before reaching Last Chance Bathroom (4,700') Ridges are almost entirely melted out, and no snowshoes necessary. The last vertical 800' to the summit leaves the ridge and crosses a snowfield, and conditions high on the route may require traction and winter climbing techniques (ice axe, crampons or microspikes). Beware of heavy rain, and thunderstorms and fast-changing weather. Do not attempt to summit during risk of thunderstorm. A cornice is present at the crater rim, so please stay back 10 feet from the ledge, and avoid the crack that indicates the sagging cornice. Glide cracks are beginning to appear in the gullies beside the route, and may be covered with thin snow bridges. Pay attention to cracks on either side of your route, and avoid obvious hazard areas. Not much snow left for skiing or snowboarding, though a few thousand feet is possible. Always scout glissade trails before descending, as many rocks have begun to melt through. Take caution- it is easy to descend away from the climbing route. Do not just follow the "fall-line" on your descent. Route finding may be challenging in dense cloud or fog; be sure to know the route and carry navigation equipment.
Please check the forecast as weather conditions as mountain conditions can change rapidly.
This conditions report is provided in conjunction with the US Forest Service, and is intended for personal and recreational purposes only. Safe backcountry travel requires preparation and planning, and this information may be used for planning purposes but does not provide all the information necessary for backcountry travel. Advanced mountaineering education is strongly encouraged for winter climbing.
The user acknowledges that it is impossible to accurately predict natural events in every instance, and the accuracy or reliability of the information provided here is not guaranteed in any way. This report describes general conditions and local variations will always occur. This report expires 24 hours after the posted time unless noted otherwise.
See the U.S. Forest Service Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument website for more information.
FIRE: Incident Information System has the most up to date info on all fires (prescribed or wild) around the country. Visit Washington Smoke Information and AirNow for the latest in Air Quality and forecasting.
WEATHER: Weather.gov point forecasts- Marble Mountain SnoPark (2,700ft) and mid-slope (6,200ft). Mountain-Forecast.com provides forecasts at three different elevations: summit 8,328ft, mid-slope 6,500ft and just above the trailhead 3,200ft.
AVALANCHE: Visit the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center for the most up-to-date avalanche forecast information during winter months.
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