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June 22, 2017 update
Road to Climber's Bivouac is still closed due to snow. Forest Service is working on the road, though there are still large snow drifts and several feet of snow at the parking lot. It is loosely scheduled to open first week of July. The winter climbing route (Worm Flows) out of Marble Mountain Sno-Park is the preferred climbing route until summer. There is no Recreation Pass (i.e. parking fee) needed at Marble Mountain Sno-Park after April 1. Dispersed camping is available in the vicinity of the parking lot.
***With the heat forecast for this weekend, be sure to be well hydrated before your climb and carry plenty of water (3-4 L is recommended), as well as adequate snacks. Sun protection is crucial, with lightweight long pants and a sun shirt, and frequent application of sunscreen SPF 45+***
The trail is snow free from the parking lot up to Chocolate Falls. At Chocolate Falls, Swift Creek may be running from high elevation snow melt, and a minor stream crossing is possible in the afternoons. The ridge following Chocolate Falls (3,700 ft) is melted out with a steep snow gully to the left; most climbers here choose to hike over the dirt and boulders up to the seismic station (5,620 ft). Icy, windblown conditions may exist on upper slopes. There is still at least 20 ft of snow on the summit rim, some of which is overhanging into the crater in the form of a cornice. Be aware that cornices can slough off at an angle 35 degrees from it's base on the crater side. It is advised to stay back at least 30' from the edge of the summit rim. On the way down, it is advised to scout glissade routes before descending. Some chutes are melting out and may have holes, glide cracks, and rocks exposed. With some care, glissading can be done down to 4,500 ft.
Please check the forecast as weather conditions are very variable at this time of year. Be prepared for cold, wet, winter conditions by having appropriate winter climbing gear and strong winter navigational/orienteering/mountaineering skills.
This conditions report is provided in conjunction with the US Forest Service, and is intended for personal and recreational purposes only. Safe backcountry travel requires preparation and planning, and this information may be used for planning purposes but does not provide all the information necessary for backcountry travel. Advanced mountaineering education is strongly encouraged.
The user acknowledges that it is impossible to accurately predict natural events in every instance, and the accuracy or reliability of the information provided here is not guaranteed in any way. This report describes general conditions and local variations will always occur. This report expires 24 hours after the posted time unless noted otherwise.
See the U.S. Forest Service Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument website for more information.
WEATHER: Weather.gov point forecasts- Marble Mountain SnoPark (2,700ft) and mid-slope (6,200ft). Mountain-Forecast.com provides forecasts at three different elevations: summit 8,328ft, mid-slope 6,500ft and just above the trailhead 3,200ft.
AVALANCHE: Visit the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center for the most up to date avalanche forecast information.